A professor in IUP’s Fashion Studies program, Janet Blood gave a presentation last spring on changes in style from the late 1800s at Indiana State Normal School to the 1940s at Indiana State Teachers College. Following are some of her observations from yearbooks. Images were provided by IUP archivist Harrison Wick.
Jane Leonard, 1897—The frills around her neck and shoulders are likely part of a capelet the preceptress is wearing over just a bodice with leg-of-mutton sleeves and a long walking skirt, Blood said. These sleeves were most popular in 1895, but fashion tends to move slowly into rural areas like Indiana, she said.
Phi Alpha, 1912—The fraternity brothers’ suits “look like you could get them off the rack today,” Blood said, which is common in men’s clothing, although the width of ties, lapels, pant legs, and jackets changes over time. The stiff, detachable collars helped shirts look clean longer.
Pi Kappa Sigma, 1912—Blood wonders if lingerie dresses—made of lace and cotton and worn over a slip—were the start of the sorority tradition of “wearing your whites.”
Junior Class, 1913—The silhouettes of these garments show a shift in eras from Titanic to World War I, Blood said. Walking skirts are rising. Women are wearing cardigans, 'whether they're theirs or their beaus.' War is a strong influence on fashion, she added, giving the examples of trench coats and the switch from pocket watches to wrist watches.
Freshman Class, 1918—Garments began moving to boxy, barrel silhouettes while hemlines started to rise. Some freshmen are holding onto their piled-high, Gibson Girl hairstyles, Blood noted, while others have moved on to wearing their hair down or pulled back.
Art Club, 1926—These students 'seemed at the forefront of style,' Blood said. Bob cuts and Marcel waves were becoming popular hair trends.
Prigrind Club, 1930—Donning furs on a chilly day were members of the Primary Grade of Indiana Club, for students preparing to teach in elementary schools. “Furs were probably less exclusive than they are today,” Blood said.
Newman Club, 1933 and Sophomore Class Officers, 1938—Garments cut on the bias—with the pattern at a 45-degree angle to the fabric’s weave—created a smoother fit that hugged or softly draped the body. The technique started in the 1920s and remained popular throughout the ’30s, Blood said, pointing to these examples.
Indiana Pulchritude, 1940—In the 1920s through the ’40s, many yearbook pages were devoted to beauty (or pulchritude). While pursuing the “ideals of beauty” is a controversial topic now, Blood said, “sometimes it’s a losing battle because it’s so engrained within our society.”
Baseball, 1897 and 1911—Athletic uniforms dating back to the late 1800s look similar to outfits people wear today—inside and outside of sports, particularly on the men’s side. “It’s neat to see how sports wear turned into sportswear,” Blood said. “There’s a reason for that.”
Women’s Basketball, 1912—Blood believes split skirts were worn on the courts with these sailor-style tops.
The IUP Fashion Studies Historic Costume Collection welcomes donations of key apparel and accessories from all decades, particularly the 1990s through the 2010s. Contact: Dr. Janet Blood, janet.blood@iup.edu
Football, 1927
Head cheerleader, 1928
Men’s Basketball, 1928—These uniforms appear similar to a onesie, with a faux belt, Blood said.
Life Saving Corps, 1929—Synthetics were just coming out at this time, so these suits would have been wool, Blood said. “Wool doesn’t absorb water right away. It stays on the surface. I don’t know how it felt on the body.”
Freshman Men’s Basketball, 1933—'You could walk out of the Co-op Store today' with these quarter-zip sweats, Blood said.